|
|
|
|
|
||
| 2007 | ||
|
Destructive Scratching in Cats and What to do About It
|
| Why Cats Claw and Scratch Objects |
|
Scratching objects in their environment is normal behavior for cats and serves a variety of functions. First it is a way to remove the dead outer sheath from the claws. Second, scratching is a marking behavior which leaves a visual mark as a cue to other cats that the area is used and occupied. Third, scratching can be a means of stretching and flexing the feet and claws. Fourth, scratching also can occur as a part of play Because scratching is a normal behavior for cats, and one which cats are highly motivated to display, you should not expect to prevent your cat from scratching. The goal in working with cats who are damaging furniture or other items by scratching and clawing is to redirect the behavior onto appropriate objects. It is unrealistic to think that cats can be prevented from scratching. |
| Techniques to Direct Scratching onto Acceptable Objects |
|
What objects your cat prefers to scratch will depend on their location, texture, and orientation (horizontal vs. vertical). Cats will develop individual preferences based on these factors. In some cases, a single scratching post may not be enough. Once your cat's preferences have been determined, you can substitute similar, but acceptable objects for your cat to scratch. If your cat is scratching vertical objects such as the sides or arms of furniture, vertical scratching posts can be used. If your cat is clawing horizontal objects, such as the carpet on stairs, pieces of corrugated cardboard or a board covered with carpet remnants can be placed on the stair. Appropriate objects for scratching should be placed near or adjacent to the inappropriate items which your cat is already using. Many popular books about cats suggest taking your cat to the scratching post and making scratching movements with their paws. This is not likely to help your cat learn to use the post or other appropriate object. It may even have the opposite effect. Having paws squeezed and manipulated may be uncomfortable and your cat may avoid the scratching post as a result. A better approach to encourage your cat to use the appropriate object is to present things that will encourage her to climb and/or scratch the object on her own, and then reward her for doing so. For example, a toy can be tangled from the top of the post or a tidbit of food can be placed on top. When your cat reaches up the post with his feet, he should be verbally praised and perhaps given a tidbit. These procedures should be repeated until your cat, on his own, begins to show an interest in the scratching object. Once your cat is reliably using the appropriate objects, these items can then be very gradually moved to a more desirable location. However, the objects should still be kept as close to your cat's original preferred location as possible. After an appropriate scratching object has been placed where your cat is scratching, the inappropriate objects should be covered with an unattractive surface such as double-sided tape, aluminum foil, sheets of sandpaper, or a plastic carpet runner with the point side up. These aversive coverings should not be removed from household objects until your cat has been consistently using the desired item in its permanent location for several weeks. The aversive covering should be removed gradually (a small section at a time), rather than all at once. Unpleasant odors can also be used to make objects less attractive. However, care must be used because if the odors are penetrating they may also affect the nearby appropriate object. Odors may best be used as a deterrent after the scratching object has been moved some distance away, to its permanent location. Examples include room deodorizer, muscle rub, potpourri, or even human deodorant. (Some owners report their cats are attracted to such odors, so your mileage may vary.) |
| A Few Words About Punishment |
|
If used by itself, punishment is not going to stop your cat from scratching. As stated before, it is unrealistic to think that cats can be taught not to scratch. This is a normal behavior which serves many functions. The goal should not be to stop your cat from scratching, but to direct the behavior onto appropriate items. Thus, you must provide objects for scratching which are attractive from your cat's Indirect punishment may be used if your cat is caught in the act of scratching furniture, drapes, or other off-limits items. A loud noise such as a whistle, or a water-filled squirt bottle are two ideas. There are also battery-operated motion-and-vibration detecting devices that can automatically set off a shrill noise if your cat walks in front of them or disturbs them. Indirect punishment is most effective if it is given every time your cat scratches in the inappropriate place. Even when it happens every time, if indirect punishment is given by you, your cat may learn to link the punishment with your presence. For these reasons, the battery-operated devices may be more effective. If it comes from you, the punishment needs to be as unobtrusive as possible. Cats will quickly learn that punishment can be expected when you're home, but does not occur when you're not around. The more your cat thinks the punishment is a result of her own actions, and not something coming from you, the more effective it will be. Making the inappropriate objects less attractive with aversive textures is probably the most effective approach. The message to your cat is, "scratching here is uncomfortable". Attempts to punish your cat after the fact by bringing him to the scratched object and yelling at him or hitting him are not helpful and are not fair to your cat. This delayed punishment often creates additional problems, such as making your cat afraid of you, or anxious in general because she cannot predict when you will punish her. The best approach, which you must take, is to determine what your cat's scratching preferences are, and to provide appropriate objects for scratching. |
| Declawing |
|
Myths and misconceptions abound regarding the effects of declawing on cat behavior. The two most common beliefs are that declawed cats are more likely to bite and more frequently have litter box problems than cats who are not declawed. Results of recent scientific studies dispute these long-held beliefs. A survey of 865 cat owners showed that declawed cats are no more likely to bite than are cats with claws. A second study that examined litter box habits of cats with and without claws found that there were no differences between the two groups of cats. There was no evidence that declawing led to an increase in litter box problems. In a third survey, many cat owners reported a closer relationship with their cat and a more positive attitude about their pet after having them declawed. In none of these studies did owners report an actual decrease in the scratching behavior after declawing. The cats would still rake their paws down or across certain objects, just as they did prior to the declaw. In 17% of the cases in one survey, the cat had been kept in the home only because the destructive aspect of scratching had been eliminated by the surgery. Although the surgery may lead to temporary physical discomfort, effective analgesics are available which will minimize the adverse effects. If it's a choice between giving up your cat and having her declawed, then surgery may be the best alternative. |
| Alternatives to Declawing |
If you do not want to declaw your cat, but still need to stop him from damaging items in the house by scratching, there are several other techniques that can supplement the behavioral approaches listed above. These include:
|
|
@) 1994 by Suzanne Hetts, PhD, Denver Dumb Friends League and 1997 by Scott Line, DVM, PhD, Animal Humane Society. If this material is reproduced, please credit the Denver Dumb Friends League and Animal Humane Society.
Powered by
Ten Seven, Interactive. |
